Monday, June 05, 2006

Out of Place

Here are some closing observations on Dar es Salaam.

The place has absolutely no need for a supermarket. Forget Cub, Wallgreens, Fred Meyer. All you need to do to get your shopping done is sit in the inevitable traffic jams on any of the main (meaning paved) roads, and anything and everything you could possibly need will walk by your car.

As you sit in traffic, men walk alongside and between cars, selling literally anything and everything. Most commonly there are newspapers, especially in the morning, but if you have any need for dish towels, chewing gum, stearing wheel covers, cashews, nerf balls - you won't have to wait very long.

The strangest thing that I saw, however, was a fully assembled six-foot metal coat rack. A guy just walked ever so boredly alongside the traffic, holding it up for the drivers to see. I watched it for quite a ways as the man worked his way down the road.

Now while the Wartburg group was still here, we often found ourselves playing the "out of place" game. While spending four hours driving along a winding mountain road, we would try to out-do each other with what could possibly be the most out of place in that setting. Things like a marching band in full uniform and perfect formation coming through the palm trees, a Dip 'n Dots stand, and your grandmother were all perfectly suitable answers.

When we were at the Masaai village where we had church outside under a tree with goats and stray chickens meandering by, amidst dozens of traditionally dressed Masaai, a very familiar ringtone started playing during a prayer. A warrior dug in his robes and pulled out his cell, guiltilly walking away before answering. We all looked at each other and snickered - we couldn't have thought of a better "out of place" if we'd thought all month. (as a side note, landlines are scarce here, especially in the bush, so it is very practical for the Masaai to have cell phones while they are out for weeks herding cattle in the middle of nowhere. they sell their livestock for cash to pay for this and other things that require hard currency).

Despite the fact that I'd gotten quite used to the carside shopping in Dar, a big maroon coat rack was still well enough outside the expected to be my "out of place" moment for my time in the city, as I watched it weave between cars for half a mile before it disappeared entirely.

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